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Home Columns Illuminations

Red-Light Therapy: Do Skincare Products Help or Hinder?

Kristin Smithers by Kristin Smithers
December 2, 2024
in Illuminations
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In recent years, as more and more tanning salons add hybrid lamps, red-light units, or combo systems that include red and infrared light, a big question pops up a lot: What enhancement products should we recommend to customers? Should products even be recommended for optimal red-light results? Do skincare products enhance or block red light? This topic has sparked widespread debate, with some advocating for no products at all, while others offer hundreds of suggestions for products that claim to improve results. A quick internet search will leave you with conflicting answers and more questions than solutions.

I recently conducted my own informal experiment, and the results were surprising. The core questions I sought to answer were: Do certain products block red light? Do products that claim to enhance red light actually work?

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I used a Model 9.5 light meter by Solarmeter®, a device that detects red light in milliwatts per square centimeter (mw/cm²). This is the same tool I regularly use to ensure my red-light devices are functioning at correct levels and to calculate the total energy output (in joules) during timed sessions. For this experiment, I used a tool that typically emits 100mw/cm² from a single LED diode over a one-centimeter area. I first measured the red-light output through a glass surface, which resulted in a reduction of about 35%. This decrease was due to the thickness of the glass. Next, I applied various products to the glass panel and repeated the measurements to see how the products influenced the red light’s ability to pass through the glass. The products ranged from serums and moisturizers to tanning lotions – some designed specifically for red light, others not. These products also varied in quality, with some being professional-grade and others being grocery store items.

Products not specifically made for red-light sessions either blocked or significantly decreased the amount of red light that passed through the glass. Grocery store products, in particular, were the worst offenders in terms of blocking red light. However, the products designed for red-light therapy either had no effect on the amount of light that passed through, or in some cases, they even increased it! This led me to conclude that when using hybrid tanning and red-light units, it’s crucial to ensure that clients are using products formulated for red-light sessions. Otherwise, their skincare products might actually be reducing or blocking the light, thereby diminishing the benefits of the hybrid or red-light sessions.

Even though my experiment was by no means a controlled scientific study, it provided an eye-opening realization: Companies that invest time and effort into developing red light-approved skincare products likely have a deep understanding of how to create formulations that allow red light to penetrate the skin effectively. While I didn’t embark on this experiment with the intention of endorsing specific products, it’s clear that using the right products can make a difference in how well red-light sessions work.

Skincare products that not only allow red light to penetrate the skin effectively, but also mimic and enhance the skin’s natural response to red light are a game-changer for the tanning and wellness industry!

Scientific studies support the idea that certain ingredients can enhance the effectiveness of red-light sessions. For example, a study found that soaking skin in green tea before exposure to 670nm red light for an effective dose of four (4) joules led to significant wrinkle reduction – results that usually take ten months to achieve were observed after just one month. Green tea contains compounds that enhance the skin’s receptivity to light, making it a powerful partner for red-light therapy.*

Other skincare ingredients are also designed to work with light. For instance, X50® Photoglow™ is an ingredient that absorbs visible light and transforms it into energy for skin cells. Clinical studies have shown that this ingredient can increase skin luminosity by 33% and radiance by 55% in just four weeks. This technology demonstrates the powerful effect that light can have on the skin when paired with the right ingredients.

Additionally, red light-approved skincare products often contain ingredients like Plankton Extract, which may also be labeled as Anacystis Nidulans Extract, Blue-Green Algae or Marine Algae. These ingredients contain a light-harvesting chromophore that enhances the skin’s ability to absorb light while providing protection against sun damage. Plankton Extract is rich in antioxidants and has been shown to improve the skin’s resilience to oxidative stress. One can say it mimics the action of Superoxide Dismutase (SOD), a powerful antioxidant enzyme naturally produced by the liver that is key to keeping healthy cells from reacting to oxygen and being aged through the oxidation process. SOD plays a crucial role in neutralizing free radicals and preventing cellular aging. Exposure to red, infrared and even amber light stimulates the body to increase its production of SOD.

Having access to skincare products that not only allow red light to penetrate the skin effectively, but also mimic and enhance the skin’s natural response to red light is a game-changer for the tanning and wellness industry! By incorporating advanced ingredients, tanning salons are positioning themselves as leaders in the skincare field, with knowledge that extends beyond tanning into advanced skincare and light therapy.

As the industry continues to innovate with hybrid and red-light technologies, understanding the role of skincare products in optimizing results is essential. Both salon owners and customers will benefit from being informed about which products are most effective, ensuring that each session delivers maximum results. Make sure to ask your brand reps which products will be the best fit for your equipment!

*Sommer AP, Zhu D. Green tea and red light – a powerful duo in skin rejuvenation. Photomed Laser Surg. 2009 Dec;27(6):969-71. doi: 10.1089/pho.2009.2547. PMID: 19817517.

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Kristin Smithers

Kristin Smithers

Kristin Smithers has been the operator of Sunny Shores Tanning & Treasures, a salon in North East, PA since 2019 and an industry professional since 2016. Kristin has studied business and also obtained her diploma from the Photonic Therapy Institute to become a Certified Light Therapist. She is now Board Certified by the Board of Advanced Natural Health Sciences. When not providing services at her wellness spa, Kristin can be found assisting other salon owners in online tanning forums, staying updated on the latest scientific studies supporting light therapy, attending clinics and training required to keep her Board Certification or attending her four kids’ sporting events. Kristin is eager to help shine a light on the illuminating world of light therapy for fellow industry professionals.

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